Alexandria, Egypt:
All I can say is, Wow. You never really understand the world until you go experience it. It's hard to convey in writing what this city is like. The people are very simple; t-shirts and jeans. No brand names apart from the elite class. Everyone mills around on what seems like an endless merry-go-round of greeting tourists with flashy fake gold and sitting down drinking their precious tea with mint.
After finally getting off the ship I was almost immediately greeted by a stout little man by the name of Yousif. His family owned a small souvenir shop directly off the aft side of the boat and he called me over, shook my hand and proudly said, "Welcome to my home!" We chatted for about half an hour about how he sees many people come from the ships and always wants to help as much as possible. He told me that he had a thing of tea brewing in the back as well, in case I was thirsty or wanted to sit and talk for a while. At first this seemed like a red flag, but the more people I interacted with while in Alexandria the more I realized
everyone extended the same offer, no matter how much money or tea they had. I politely told him I wasn't thirsty and he continued on about the city, warned me to be wary of strangers trying to lead me down back alleyways and to always trust my instincts. I politely thanked him for the conversation and information and started to go on my way. About three steps from his shop he stopped me and said, Catch! As I turned around I saw something flying through the air at me. I caught it (not gracefully I might add) and inspected it. It was a kitchy metal shot glass with EGYPT inscribed in really ugly lettering. I loved it nonetheless, smiled and thanked him profusely before continuing on my way.
Arriving at the port of Alexandria's main gate was slightly intimidating. I was met by four armed guards with very stern faces. They didn't offer me any tea. I was searched, asked to present my passport and crew ID and was directed not to leave the city limits of Alexandria as per my contract. I was also warned that being an American made me a target for theft and murder and to always be on my guard. One of the men pointed me in the direction of the center of the city and said, "Go.". Who was I to argue? I stepped around the gate that blocked my line of view and was greeted by the sounds of taxi drivers yelling different offers at me,
"One hour, ten dollars!"
"No, one hour 8 dollars!"
"No one knows the city like me!"
I pushed through them with minor difficulty and continued walking. The streets were absolutely littered with trash; you could find everything from doll clothes, to paper waste to rotten food. Needless to say it was not exactly the cleanest city I've ever been to. Actually, to be completely honest, it was pretty raunchy. Also a little side note: there are THOUSANDS of stray cats. Seriously. A shit ton.
I walked about a quarter, occasionally snapping some pictures and constantly being sure to avoid the cats. Seriously, so many cats. While I was taking a picture of the Egyptian water fountain I saw a man in the corner of my eye pointing at me and smiling. I assumed he was making fun of me; I am a tourist after all. I took the picture and proceeded to wade my way through the sea of garbage that I accepted as the streets of Alexandria.
When I passed the man who was laughing at me, he was sitting outside of his coffee shop, enjoying his tea with mint. I looked at him, smiled and said hello in Arabic and waved. It may have been the Arabic, maybe it was the fact that I actually smiled or maybe it was something else about me, but the man cocked his head to the side and watched as I walked by; he seemed intrigued. I was about thirty feet from him when he called out, "You know something. I must apologize for the current state of my once beautiful home. It hasn't always been like this. Ever since we over turned our government, basic functions such as sanitation have all but come to a halt." I turned around and found the man out of his seat and with his hand outstretched, doing his best Vanna White impression. I wasn't sure what to say back to that, I didn't want to lie to him. It was pretty dirty. So I said, "New York City isn't a whole lot better." He laughed and slapped his knee and ran towards me with his hand ready to shake mine, "My name is Yousif. Welcome to Alexandria. I'm sorry to have laughed at you earlier, but we all love tourists. Especially Americans. And you are definitely an American."
He offered to take me on a tour of the city, free of charge because he had never met an American who smiled and seemed as gentle as me. He gave me two options, to see the tourist side of Egypt or the real kind. I told him to show me the real kind, the one that people live with every day. After all, I was here to see the world, not what the world thought I
wanted to see. He smiled and whistled at me to come with him.
We walked down the street and said we needed to cross, his one rule : Look at me, not the cars. With that, we crossed the street. There was a chorus of honking and yelling and cursing and Yousif simply waved at the cars and continued on with myself staying VERY close behind him. Our first stop was the Egyptian Bazaar. The Bazaar had a specific name but if I even attempted to try to remember it my brain would explode, so it is now called The Bazaar. This outdoor marketplace was full of everything one could think of; literally. Live goats, live fish, cats, dogs, homeless people, rich people, horses, "doctors", fishermen, spices and even prostitutes lined the streets of Alexandria. It was
amazing. The quality of all the products were not what really stood out, but the fact that everyone bought their goods in this manner was what was fascinating. There was no refigeration. There was no health or sanitation code. There was no licensing or monitoring of goods. This was a real hand-to-hand exchange of products from supplier to consumer. It was beautiful in a sense.
There were some familiar sights such as Nestle products and Coca-Cola and the usual global super brands.Yousif never pressured me to buy anything, so I didn't, but he explained all the goods and the men who operated the stands. He saw someone he recognized ( what I would soon learn to be a pretty common occurrence) and started talking to him. He introduced me and I said my bit of Arabic that I knew. This made the fruit stand owner smile and he said something to Yousif who seemed surprised and delighted.
"He said he would like you to have this fruit. He knows it does not come in America and he wants you to have it, no charge."
I was handed a fruit that looked something like a pear but much heavier. I was instructed to take a bite and that the entire fruit was edible, I did as I was told. The taste was somewhere between an apple and pear with the texture of a honeydew. Definitely something new for me, that's for sure. I said thank you about a thousand times to the stand owner and we went on our way.
Our next stop was the largest mosque in Alexandria. As is always customary, we removed our shoes before entering the grandiose building with what must have been fifty-foot ceilings, and sat on chairs circling the perimeter of the center of worship. Yousif was slightly tired so he encouraged me to go walk around, take pictures and explore. I did so, marveling at the ornate hand-painted Arabic that was scrawled all over the place, it was everywhere- floor, ceiling, light bulbs, books. It was really beautiful. After I made my rounds I came back to my tour guide who just sat admiring the mosque with a smile. A few minutes of silenced passed and I felt I had to ask,
"Why did you offer to take me around Alexandria? Are you always this kind to tourists?"
Yousif looked at me and smirked, "No, not always
this kind. But when I saw you taking pictures and walking around by yourself I knew that you were not a typical tourist. You had an energy about you, like you were curious to find the truth about the world. I felt it was my responsibility to show you my part of the world and to hope that one day you can do the same for me; this is how the world goes round. Also, I knew you were a good man when you tried to say things in Arabic to me and my friends, it shows that you have a genuine desire for connection with us despite being total strangers." He sighed and continued, "You know, I want to make sure that you understand as well that what happened in America on the eleventh of September was terrible and we felt so sad for your country. Our nation weeped for your fallen brothers as did your people. It was a tragedy and what the radicals did should not cloud your judgement of all Arab people." He concluded, with a twinkle in his eye that actually turned into a single tear drop that ran down the left side of his face before disappearing into his beard.
"Thank you, I appreciate that. And I know you are not all the same as all Americans are not the same as well." After a brief pause to look at the inscriptions on the ceiling, we stood up and left the mosque.
From the mosque we went to a jewelry store with real silver and gold and precious stones, a perfume maker who mixed everything by hand, a few clothing stores, a tea merchant and finally we ended up back at Yousif's coffee shop about a quarter mile from the boat's entrance. We sat and drank one glass on tea with mint and watched together as toursists from other cruise ships passed by in their Hawaiin flavored attire ( it actually looked like a mix of tropical throw-up) looking around at the port of Alexandria. I stood up and shook Yousif's hand when I finished my tea and he said to me, "I will never forget you, Ryan. My new American brother. Now you always have family in Egypt."
We said our good-bye's and I went on my way towards the ship. I had to treck through the same muck and grime, the trash, the homeless, the thousands of stray cats and the belligerent taxicab drivers but this time when I shoved my way through the sea of hounding salesmen, it all took new light. Maybe it was the tea with mint that relaxed me or maybe it was the pear that satisfied a hunger I didn't know I had, but Alexandria suddenly looked beautiful from where I was standing. The Jewel of the Middle East maybe was not the city itself, but the kind and generous people who reside in it, begging to be understod by outside world. Getting on the ship and taking one last look back towards land I felt a satisfaction I hadn't known I'd been seeking. This was just step one in a many part journey to see the world that I call home.